Week 1: April 12 - April 18

OUR 2-WEEK CRUISE AROUND JAPAN

12 April 2025 - Our trip began with a flight to O'Hare Airport in Chicago with a small lay-over spent in one of the lounges. Then it was on to Yokohama, Japan via an overnight flight. A caveat for anyone thinking of paying the extra money for a sleeper seat. Make sure you are getting more than a chair that folds down. In hindsight, that is still a chair. Our arrival proved to be more of a challenge than we anticipated. We had to preregister for Customs through the online portal. The problem was getting access to the kiosks through the massive crowds. Over an hour of standing in line with all our luggage in a overheated, packed, snaking line that did not sort between unregistered and preregistered passengers. Finally, reaching the kiosks for ID verification of our passports, fingerprints and facial recognition was smooth, though not perfect. But our transportation to our hotel was waiting and efficient through the madness of Tokyo traffic. Unless one is familiar with Tokyo, we do not recommend driving yourself.  One night at Tokyo Westin Hotel. 

View from our Hotel Room of the Yebisu Garden Place.

In a mix of traditional and ultramodern, Tokyo, Japan's capital city, is busy with neon-lit skyscrapers to historic temples and shrines. Built on the former site of a beer brewery, where the still existing Yebisu Beer brand had been brewed since 1890, this pleasant city within a city consists of about a dozen buildings and skyscrapers, featuring restaurants, shops, the Tokyo Westin Hotel, the Michelin three-star Restaurant, Joel Robuchon, offices, residential space and a photography museum. The building in the foreground houses the Restaurant Joel Robuchon. At the other end of the arch topped Center Walkway is the Brewery and Museum. We did not have enough time explore this area because our bags had to be outside our door by 10am, have breakfast and be ready to board the shuttle bus to the port. 

13 April 2025 Breakfast at Hotel before heading to the ship. 

Breakfast at the Tokyo Westin was a huge buffet of hot and cold items: fruits, eggs in any style, soups, breads, pastries, salads, cheeses and meats, oatmeal, porridge, and rice. Bob chose miso soup (which seems to be available at any meal), salmon and yellow-tail tuna, egg roll, scrambled eggs, asparagus, carrot, hash brown potato.


View of the Westin Garden near our breakfast table. Sadly, it was raining this morning so taking a walk was not an option.


After breakfast, while waiting for our transportation to the ship, this carriage showed up. No, that is not our transportation. We never did see anyone take a ride, but the two guys walked the horse and carriage around the front of the hotel. It did not make a lot of sense to us, but perhaps it was a throwback to the historical time after the country was opened up to international trade. 


Having arrived onboard the Holland America Noordam, the panoramic view from the balcony of our room showing Tokyo Bay. It's a bit overcast, but that's ok... for today.

14 April 2025 - Arriving at Shimizu, Japan.   Excursions to Mt. Fuji World Heritage Centre and the Fujisan HongÅ« Sengen Taisha Shrine.

The ship sailed from Yokoyama to Shimizu while we slept. We are arriving at Shimizu port. 

Nice view from our balcony at Shimizu Port. Very festive.


Carol followed by David heading to the buses for our first excursion. Wonder where we are heading?



View from the bus and a hint on where we might be heading. 

The central exhibition building is distinguished by its unique form, featuring an inverted cone with exterior walls of latticed wood made from Hinoki cypress from Mt. Fuji.

Arriving at the Mt. Fuji World Heritage Centre. Built as a key facility for conveying the wonder of "Fujisan, sacred place and source of artistic inspiration," which was inscribed as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site in June 2013. The interior is a virtual mountain-climbing experience on a spiral slope. Each level accesses Exhibit Rooms introduces various aspects of Mt. Fuji such as its history, culture and nature. Reaching the summit of Mt. Fuji has long been considered a spiritual tradition which continues to this day. "The Fierce Mountain" was formed in the "Ring of Fire" or circum-Pacific volcanic belt and is a young and active volcano. Humans occurred around 35,000 years ago. Blessed with beautiful scenery and abundant nature, "The Sacred Mountain" has given rise to diverse faiths and art throughout its long history. Today, it is deeply rooted in the hearts of the Japanese. Its graceful form, clad in white snow cascading down its ridgelines has been praised in ancient poems and has also been depicted in works of art. Rising up more than 6000 meters (19,685 feet), the snow and rain soak into the ground, flowing down to form springs on the seabed of Suruga Bay, which supports various kinds of living organisms.  


Torii Gate for the Mt. Fuji World Heritage Center.

Carol walking up the winding ramp to the top of the Heritage Center.


View of Mt. Fuji from the top of the heritage center.  A bit clouded. We didn't have time to wait for it to clear as we needed to get back to the bus. BUT...


Once we got back to the bottom, the view was clear. Time to celebrate. "Banzai," literally "ten thousand years" or "long live or hurrah." David and Cathy with Carol and Bob.


  
On the way to the main gates of the Fujisan Hongū Sengen Taisha Shrine, there is an equestrian monument to Minamoto no Yoritomo, the founder of the first Shogunate of Japan.


  
Purification (washing) station before going into the shrine. Dip water for pouring over your hands.

Rinsing the mouth is also considered appropriate, but just remember 
not to drink from the dipper.
 



Tower gate in front of the Fujisan Hongu Sengen Taisha Shrine. This is a 
Shinto shrine and is the head shrine of approximately 1300 Sengen
shrines in the country. The entire top of Mt. Fuji is also considered 
to be part of the shrine grounds. The shrine was built to appease the 
kami (spirit, deity, or god) of the mountain. As this kami is the 
goddess of fire, it is logical that the shrine was erected to pray for 
the end of eruptions. Originally, climbing the mountain was limited to
monks for religious reasons. Pilgrimages to Mount Fuji became
common in the ninth century onwards, although women were 
forbidden from climbing. Between 1192 and 1600, the Shogun
(military rulers of Japan) kept the shrine in good order with donations.
During the Edo Period (1600-1868), the shrine became a center of cult 
worshiping Mt. Fuji and drew pilgrims from all over Japan.
 


From 1871, the State Shinto's Modern Ranking System designated Fujisan Hongu Sengen Taisha as an Imperial Shrine, 2nd Rank. It was promoted to an Imperial Shrine, 1st Rank in 1896, meaning that it stood in the first rank of government-supported shrines.



Today, more than 400,000 pilgrims climb Mount Fuji every year, many stopping at the shrine in order to wish for a safe journey. 

Side of outer shrine on the left and inner shrine on the right. 


15 April 2025 Arriving at Kobe, Japan.   Excursion to: Koko-en Garden and Himeji Castle.


Himeji Koko-en. The garden of Lord's residence is a traditional walking garden that opened in 1993 with a backdrop of World Heritage Site, Himeji Castle. The garden was built on land that excavations confirmed had once been the location of Himeji Castle's Western Residence, samurai residences and old streets. It includes nine gardens each offering a different charm. 

Koi pond is within the Garden of the Lord's Residence. It is the biggest garden 
in "Koko-en" and there are about 250 colorful carp in the pond.


The Lord's Residence (barely seen on the right) is now the Kassui-Ken restaurant where tea and lunch are served while guests enjoy overlooking the koi pond. There is also a Tea Ceremony garden where guests can have an elegant time in the authentic sukiya style tea ceremony room. The roofed corridor between the Lord's residence and the guest house was designed to make the sound of footsteps remind us of Japanese drums. 

The garden's atmosphere, based on the Edo Period (1603-1868), has been 
used as a filming location for historical dramas and episodes of Japan's 
annual historic TV epics.

Our first glance of the Himeji castle through the trees and behind the huge hedge.

We had to truly hunt for it but eventually found a side garden of their bonsai trees. It is not an official garden, but we enjoyed seeing real Japanese bonsai. I am amazed to see all these beautiful old trees in such a dismal display and lacking any information, especially tree species and age of training.

This one looks like a maple that was damaged in nature but continues to live
under the care of the gardeners.
 

Lovely spot for a group picture with the azaleas in bloom. Few people come this way so Bob could not be in the picture.


Finished with the garden and waiting for the castle tour to begin. Such a beautiful and spacious location creates a grand visual experience and has been used as a filming location for Japanese dramas and international movies.


Walking to the castle along the moat.  Yes, it has a real moat. After Himeji 
Castle was first constructed in 1333 as a fort (hence, the moat) the next three 
feudal lords entrusted their dreams into the castle and in 1617 expanded it to
the full grandeur seen today. Part of the castle wall can be seen on the left.
 

Fishermen or workmen? I don't see any poles or nets, so I'm going with workmen. In the distance is the bridge to the castle.


Views of Himeji Castle, known as Shirasagi-jo, "White Egret Castle" describes the castle
appearance against the blue sky is often compared to the egret taking off from the water. The Sangoku moat served as both a defensive feature and the castle's water reservoir. The pond is filled by rainwater carried by drainage tile-lined ditches from around the castle.


Castle and moat wall. The castle was designated Japan's first UNESCO 
World Heritage Site in 1993: "It's aesthetic perfection makes it one of the finest 
examples of wooden architecture in Japan...and is the best example of Japan's 
unique defensive castle structure, with it's well preserved turrets, gates, earthen
walls, stone walls, moat... 

...especially the keep buildings which were constructed in the golden age of castle construction in the early 17th century." In 2015, conservation and repair of the main keep was completed, and visitors are now invited to see the structure's shining white plasterwork, which is a distinctive feature of Himeji Castle. The stone wall east of Hishi Gate has an elegant curve that is more than an aesthetic flourish - its shape allows it to withstand the pressure from the large volume of water in the reservoir behind it. The extra large stones at the bottom add to its strength as well as suggesting wealth and power. The white plaster is both beautiful and fire resistant. 

Himeji Castle fronted by Japan's blooming cherry trees. Because the castle was never besieged, bombed, or burned, more of Himeji's buildings have survived to the present day than those of any other Japanese castle. The only stone structures are its foundations; the castle's buildings are made mostly of wood, earth, and plaster. The palatial residence of the daimyo (feudal lord) and most of the living quarters and offices have been lost to time, however, the remaining buildings give some indication of how the ruling classes lived during Japan's feudal periods. 


Sophisticated defense mechanisms are integrated throughout the castle. The roof tiles are secured to the roof with white plaster. The impermeable surface created by the  plaster protects the wooden frame from moisture and fire. The clan crests of the castles lords are stamped into the end tiles on the eaves and edges of the roofs. 

Thick wooden bars were installed on the castle's windows to prevent entry and to deflect arrows and bullets. A series of sturdy gates and gatehouses protects the entrance to Himeji Castle. The twenty-one surviving gates were to prevent attackers from rushing directly into the residences at the center of the castle. The gates' narrow entryways, some of which are barely wide enough for two people, forced the attackers into deadly bottlenecks. 


The deep rectangular window (lower left) is called a loophole. There are 997 loopholes built into the walls of Himeji Castle. This type of window were for archers, while more compact openings-the squares, circles, and triangles-were for gunners. The holes were placed at three different heights for firing while standing, kneeling, or lying down. Small windows near the ceiling vented smoke from the matchlock guns from gunners perched on platforms along the walls to improve visibility.







Views from the top. All access to upper floors is by wooden stairs that are steep and about half as wide as a normal step. We were required to remove our shoes to avoid damage to the stairs. We had done our research and wore socks with rubber grip dots on the bottom to avoid slipping on the polished steps. The 6-story main keep has between 50 to over 100 steps across each level to reach the top floor.

 
The fish-like ornaments on top of Himeji Castle are shachihoko.
They are legendary Japanese mythical creatures with the head of 
a tiger and the body of a fish. These were a magical way to protect
the building from fire as they are believed in folklore to swallow
water and summon rain. They also showed the power and wealth
of the castle lord. Made from durable, fired gray clay/ceramic tiles,
they were designed to withstand harsh weather.
  

The new easy way down. Normal stairs with hand rails. 

The long, low building is the West Bailey Long Gallery. It runs along the outer edge and was built according to the hill's geographical features. It also has shooting holes for defense. This part of the castle was used as exclusively female-only living quarters in peacetime. It is 240 meters (787 feet) long with sumptuous living quarters for the daimyo's highest ranking lady (mother or wife) with the North section and its connecting towers used as apartments for servants and ladies-in-waiting.

David and Cathy heading down the stone path to rendezvous with our bus.

Back on the boat in time for dinner.



Doesn't look like much but the creamy broth for the lobster bisque is poured at the table. 


Unless one orders the tomato basil soup, then you get a "Smiley" face in cream.

16 April 2025 Arriving at Kobe, Japan.  Excursion to: Kochi Castle and Katsurahama Beach

Crew members dress up at some of the excursion points. 

The lighter side of Japan's mass transit - a Tom & Jerry electric trolley.


The Kochi Castle is the only castle in Japan still in possession of all its original Edo period architecture in the main citadel. Built by Yamanouchi Kazutoyo after the Battle of Sekigahara in 1600. and completed in 1611. It has been designated a national historic site by the Japanese government. Situated on a hill, the Castle offers sweeping views of Kochi City and is notable for its distinctive architectural features



Otemon Gate or main gate - The castle's face and first line of defense. Its grand appearance represents the castle's dignity and prestige. This highest-ranking gate leads to the main compounds such as the main bailey. The etymology of the term "otemon" uses characters meaning "pursuit gate." During castle sieges, defenders would send troops out through the rear gate and corner enemies at the front gate and concentrate battle there. During the Edo period, when wars had ceased, the otemon increasingly became a symbol of authority and prestige.



Approach to the outer wall.


Carol is waiting and listening to our guide's recommendations for seeing the interior of the Kochi Castle. 

Kochi Castle is among only 12 castles in Japan with an original main keep (tenshu), preserved since the Edo period reconstruction in 1749. Unlike many castles that have been rebuilt as replicas, Kochi Castle offers an authentic historical experience allowing visitors to explore spaces once inhabited by feudal lords and samurai. One of the highlights of Kochi Castle is its Main keep which offers a stunning 360-degree panoramic view of the city

Corner caps are embellished with the clan symbol while the roof ridge is sent soaring over the decorative horned figures. During the Edo period, castles were not only military strongholds but also vital political and administrative centers. Kochi Castle is one of only two castles in Japan with a remaining main palace, and the only one where both the main keep and the main palace still exist, making it an exceptional place to experience the authentic atmosphere of the Edo period.

This hand-embroidered tapestry shows a feudal lord with his favorite wife (in tow). Frankly, I have never heard of this form of transportation as most women of "favored" status would be carried in  palanquins. This is due to a prohibition of wheel carriages and likely, the inability to walk on dirt roads in raised sandals without getting their elaborate clothing dirty.  The multiple layers were heavy, and it was difficult to take a full stride.


 

The source of the Mitsubishi motors design originated in 1870 in Japan.It was created by Yatarō Iwasaki in Tosa domain.


Yataro Iwasaki, the founder of Mitsubishi decided on the three-diamond mark as the emblem for his company. The mark is an arrangement of two family crests; the three-oak-leaf crest of the Yamauchi family, Lords of Tosa, where Yataro was born, and the three-tiered water chestnut crest of the Iwasaki family.

  

This is a Japanese palanquin (norimono) or sedan chair. It was a covered litter carried by bearers on their shoulders often used by nobility during the Edo Period (1603-1868).  

  


  
Ducks with Arrowhead




 
A very elaborate shachihoko, the sea monster with a dragon or tiger head and fish body, to protect the castle from fire and summon clouds to control rain. Its broad fin tail always point up towards heaven, and its dorsal fins have numerous sharp spikes.

The Shachi can swallow vast amounts of water and hold it in its belly. Shachihoko are often constructed in a male and female pair, one at each end of the roof ridge as protector spirits. However, with more realistic and modern approaches to fire protection, most Shachihoko now retain only an ornamental function of roof decoration.  

 
A typical tatami mat, shoji-sliding walled room. Shoes are removed outside so the tatami mats last longer and bedding is simply laid on the floor for sleeping. Cushions are provided during sitting activities, such as meals or administrative work. 


 And now, to the Katsurahama BEACH!

A scenic spot famous for moon viewing and immortalized in the lyrics of the folk song "Yosakoi Bushi." Located in Urado Bay and overlooking the Pacific Ocean.


In 1928, a group of youths gathered funds to place the now-famous memorial statue of Sakamoto Ryoma, a Kochi native, on a small hill overlooking the beach. He was a low ranking samurai from the Tosa Domain. He worked against the Tokugawa shogunate and was often hunted by their supporters. Sakamoto was an advocate for democracy, Japanese nationalism, return of power to the Imperial Court, abolition of feudalism, and moderate modernization and industrialization of Japan. Sakamoto was assassinated in December 1867 after he had negotiated an Alliance between powerful rival domains. There is also a Sakamoto Ryoma Memorial Museum, near the shopping area, which is an ultramodern museum exploring the life of this legendary young rebel, through scrolls, letters, videos, and a replica of his Smith & Wesson pistol.


Bob barely wades into the Pacific Ocean because there are warning signs all over the beach about the undertow and swimming is not allowed due to strong currents and big waves. It is a beautiful beach, one of the most scenic in the Kochi Prefecture, with a backdrop of green pine trees and a turquoise blue water. Behind Bob, on top of the rocky hill is the Ryuogu Shrine. Perched overlooking the sea, it honors the Ryujin, the dragon god of the sea. The Shinto shrine is fronted by an iconic red torii gate. The area hosts several festivals, showcasing traditional Japanese arts and crafts. The area offers a peaceful retreat with spiritual and natural beauty.  




A little pickleball while in port up on the top deck. It was a lovely day after our tour and the court was available (for a while). We gave up when the younger, more active crowd arrived. 
 

And a little whale swimming beside the ship. We heard it was a mink whale but have no verification. It hung around for most of an hour, lazily swimming from stem to stern and back again. 

The whale drew quite a crowd of onlookers. At first, I thought it was a floating log, until I noticed it was not moving with the current. 

April 17 Hiroshima, Japan.   Excursion to: Miyajima and Itsukushima Shrine
  
Waiting to board the ferry to Itsukushima, an island in the western part of the Inland Sea of Japan, located in the northwest of Hiroshima Bay. It is popularly known as Miyajima, which means "Shrine Island." It is famous for the Itsukushima Shrine, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The shrine has been considered a sacred site for a long time, beginning in 593 A.D. as a simple shrine. In the 16th century, the famous warlord, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, built a large building, the Senjo-kaku, on a hill above the shrine. Senjo-kaku, literally meaning "pavilion of 1000 mats" and was commissioned by Toyotomi Hideyoshi for the purpose of chanting Buddist sutras for fallen soldiers. The shrine was not completed before Toyotomi's death. In 1872, the incomplete building was dedicated to the soul of its founder which remains its present-day function.  


Itsukushima Shrine O-torii Gate (Grand Torii Gate), which stands in the sea, is approximately 16.8 meters (55 feet) tall. It weighs roughly 60 tons and stands entirely on its own weight without being buried in the seabed. The main pillars are made of natural camphor wood and measure 32.5 feet in circumference. The island, including the waters around it, lies within the Setonaikai National Park. This sea is affected by strong tides. At low tide, the seabed is exposed past the torii gate. At high tide, the sea covers all the previously exposed mud flats and fills the areas underneath the shrine boardwalk (left).



We are currently standing on the boardwalk as the tide is coming in. The entire expanse out to the gate was mostly drained off until about 5 minutes before this picture was taken. People are allowed to walk out on the mud flats, but be aware. There are no warnings for the change in tides.


It was a beautiful day but a little windy out by the shoreline. The torii gate is painted with a vermilion lacquer. This gate, which is the ninth in this location, was erected in 1875.

Sika deer roam freely, walk the streets of the city and are not afraid of tourists. They are thought of as sacred in the native Shinto religion because they are considered to be messengers of the gods.


The "shamoji", a style of wooden paddle used to serve cooked rice without impairing its taste, is said to have been invented by a monk who lived on the island. There are some outsized examples around the city shopping district and are a popular souvenir.



 
Cleansing before entering the main shrine. Once you have entered the shrine, before making your wish, clap twice (to get the god's attention), toss your coin over the railing and (silently) make your wish. A "shrine" implies a Shinto religious structure while a "temple" implies a Buddhist one. Both are found on the island.


Foo dogs ae a popular symbol used in Feng Shui to protect homes and businesses from negative energy and misfortune.

 

Bronze Komainu, guardian lion-dog, statue with a closed mouth, is paired with an open-mouth companion, like Yin and Yang, representing complementary forces, balance, and harmony. Standing guard at the entrance of Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples. They symbolize fierce protection, the invisible boundary between the sacred and the secular world, and the dual cosmic forces of the universe. The closed and open mouths represents the Sanskrit syllables "A" and "Un" (Om), signifying the beginning and the end of all existence. 



Bob, inside the shrine, having tossed his coin into the slatted boxes, he is now ready to make his wish.  

Additional interior picture of the main shrine. 








Noh stage for outdoor theater. Noh is a major form of classical Japanese dance-drama that has been performed since the 14th Century. Integrating masks, costumes and various props, requiring highly trained actors and musicians, it is the oldest major theater art that is still regularly performed today. Based on tales from traditional literature featuring a supernatural being transformed into a human hero who narrates the story. Noh is highly codified and regulated, thus, emotions are primarily conveyed by stylized conventional gestures while the iconic masks represent specific roles such as ghosts, women, deities and demons.

Sori-Bashi Footbridge (Arched Bridge), a vermilion bridge within the shrine complex leading to the Itsukushima shrine. It was historically used exclusively for imperial messengers. Sori-Bashi bridges, known for their high arched designs, symbolize the transition between natural and spiritual worlds. unlike many other famous Japanese bridges the may serve more functional purposes. They are particularly noted for their aesthetic appeal and cultural significance in traditional garden settings.
 
A private courtyard garden on Miyajima Island. 

April 18  Scenic cruising Kanmon Strait.

Scenic cruising: The Kanmon Bridge crossing the Kanmon Strait between Honshu and Kyushu. Construction of this suspension bridge began in 1968 and was completed in 1973. At a length of 1,068 meters (3,504 feet), it is among the 50 largest bridges in the world.

A replica of St. Mark's Basilica located at the Venetian Resort in Nagasaki Holland Village


Onomichi, a historic port city in Hiroshima Prefecture. The main peak rising behind the town is Senkoji Park Summit, accessible via the Senkoji Temple Mountain Ropeway. The modern, block-shaped concrete and glass building one the ridge is the Onomichi City Museum of Art. Nestled into the steep mountain face just below the summit is the Senkou-ji Temple. Founded in the 9th century, this historic red-painted (Buddhist) temple sits precariously among massive natural boulder formations.

Local fishermen boats (foreground) and a commercial vessel (background).

Small coastal fishing boat with an enclosed wheelhouse cabin, green sunshade canopy and a blue fabric steadying sail.